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Make: Moeris
Type: Mechanical
Model: 20 Micron Gold-Filled Case
Year of Production: Circa 1950s
Movement: 10 1/2 series
BPH: 18,000
Number of Jewels: 17
Hand and Dial: 3D 18K Solid Gold Baton Indices with Dauphine Hands
Width: 34mm
Lug to Lug Height: 42mm
Thickness: 10mm
Lug Width: 17mm
Strap: Brand-New Hi-Quality Genuine Leather Strap with Gold Buckle
Pouch / Box: Brand-New EVA Type Zipper Pouch
Moeris was founded in 1896, in St. Imier, Switzerland by the Uhrich Frères & Cie company.
Moeris gained a reputation for producing high-quality timepieces, particularly wristwatches and pocket watches. The brand was known for its innovative designs and precision craftsmanship so much so that Moeris began selling their hi-quality movements to many Swiss watch brands such as Rolex in the early 20th century. So, Rolex's from that era may contain movements marked "Moeris." They even supplied to Seiko at the same time hence, it will be no surprise if you also find a Moeris movement in a 1930s Seiko.
Moeris watches were also supplied to military forces during WW1 and WW2. The WW1 watches were and are commonly known as Trench Watches. These watches were valued for their accuracy and reliability in such demanding conditions.
Like many Swiss watch brands, Moeris faced challenges in the mid-20th century due to the quartz crisis and changes in the watch market. Sadly, Moeris began to use another well known Swiss movement (Incabloc) towards the end of the company's lifetime to minimise costs. The original Moeris company ceased operations when it was bought over by the Tissot company circa 1970.
So, it is of great importance to note that the Moeris watch with an actual Moeris movement is valued much higher than a Moeris with an Incabloc movement.
Moeris watches from the early to mid-20th century often feature classic and elegant designs, with elements such as enamel dials, Arabic numerals, and blued hands. This watch brand are highly Collectibles nowadays due to their historical significance, craftsmanship, and rarity.
In recent years, there have been attempts to revive the Moeris brand but to no avail at the moment.
Here we have an overhauled circa 1950s Moeris 20 Micron Gold-Filled Case 17J Mechanical Watch in near mint condition.
A good and thorough clean-up revealed a beautifully preserved Butterscotch White Gold Sunburst Dial, 18K Solid Gold Baton Indices and Dauphine Hands. Miniscule Patina is slowly making its way throughout the dial.
Its classy and stylish 20 micron gold-filled shaped case was buffed as best as possible without compromising its shape, lines and gold-filling albeit a few minor scratches that are barely noticeable to the naked eye. The original crystal was replaced with a hi-quality Swiss crystal.
The crown is located at the traditional 3H position and is easily accessible.
The Moeris Caliber 10 1/2 was carefully stripped and meticulously cleaned via ultrasonic immersion, oiled, re-assembled, and calibrated on 20 January 2024. In short, it was given an overhaul and not a general servicing. It should be able to operate unhindered until the next servicing thereby giving the owner peace of mind.
Equipped with the high grade and highly prized 10 1/2 Moeris movement made from stainless steel, it has 17 Jewels and operate at 18,000 beats per hour (BPH) giving it stunning accuracy and longevity. The time-grapher, after 60 hours of calibration, shows stunning readings i.e. rate of -3 seconds every 24 hours and amplitude of 189 with a relatively straight and centered line! Such readings are truly exceptional even by brand new modern automatic watch standards whereby the accepted tolerance is -20 to +40 seconds a day! This is a testament to the quality, excellent power reserve and longevity for such a vintage timepiece, and of course the meticulous care provided over the years, and expert calibration.
The case width and height are approximately 34mm (without crown) and 42mm respectively. The lug width is 17mm and the strap can accommodate wrists up to 20cm thereby making this timepiece is suitable for man and the modern woman.
The timepiece comes with a hi-quality genuine black crocodile leather strap with gold buckle. The Buyer has the option of choosing a brand new genuine leather strap from my array of straps should he/she wishes to do so.
To the best of our knowledge and expertise when overhauling the timepiece, the watch is 100% original Moeris components from this particular watch. No parts were replaced with aftermarket parts or modified thereby it is considered in near MINT condition.
Due to its age, this timepiece has not been water-resistant tested.
The pictures provided shows the watch in mint condition. It has also been demagnetised to improve parts reliability, minimise wear & tear, and improve accuracy. The only drawback is the lack of documentation and original box. An aftermarket box or purposeful carrying case will be provided instead.
Seldom can one find a vintage watch that offers this and more. Yes, there are many other same / similar models in the market, BUT none are as well kept, maintained and calibrated as what you see here, and with an attractive price to boot. Hence, it is a no-brainer that this one-of-a-kind watch will make an extremely beautiful birthday present for that special someone. Another no-brainer is the fact that the value of this watch will appreciate over time.
Bear in mind that this watch has seen many of the previous owners’ ups and downs in life, and should be cherished and preserved for the next generation to savour such engineering beauty.
Because it is extremely rare, this 17J Moeris Caliber 10 1/2 with a 20 micron gold-filled case is not easily found on auction and online sites.
Do also bear in mind that it will cost between S$ 200.00 to S$ 250.00 for a Moeris overhaul, and an estimated S$ 100.00 to calibrate - these costs do not apply when purchasing this timepiece. So, if anyone was to sell such a timepiece at a low price yet claim that it has been serviced, one has to ask what kind of servicing was conducted, if any.
This is a must-have for the Moeris die-hard fan, and in fact, any serious watch collector for that matter!
Italian | Spanish | German | UK | US | Japanese | Chinese | Russian | Korean |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
34 | 30 | 28 | 4 | 00 | 3 | 155/75A | 36 | 44 |
36 | 32 | 30 | 6 | 0 | 5 | 155/80A | 38 | 44 |
38 | 34 | 32 | 8 | 2 | 7 | 160/84A | 40 | 55 |
40 | 36 | 34 | 10 | 4 | 9 | 165/88A | 42 | 55 |
42 | 38 | 36 | 12 | 6 | 11 | 170/92A | 44 | 66 |
44 | 40 | 38 | 14 | 8 | 13 | 175/96A | 46 | 66 |
46 | 42 | 40 | 16 | 10 | 15 | 170/98A | 48 | 77 |
48 | 44 | 42 | 18 | 12 | 17 | 170/100B | 50 | 77 |
50 | 46 | 44 | 20 | 14 | 19 | 175/100B | 52 | 88 |
52 | 48 | 46 | 22 | 16 | 21 | 180/104B | 54 | 88 |